| That an edifice of such distinction should house objects of such importance
to the city seems just, especially a city whose Asian people make up such
a crucial part of its cultural heritage. While you are sure
to stumble across any number of Asian eateries, businesses, art or cultural
influences throughout your stay in San Francisco, the following are two
day-long itinerary suggestions for your Asian immersion. It’s well-worth
a check of our event calendar to
see if your trip falls on one of the Asian festival days such as
the Cherry Blossom Festival or Chinese New Year, or even to plan a trip
to the City
around one of these grand events.
Japantown and the Asian Art Museum
After tea and a light breakfast at your downtown hotel, duck in
the morning commuter rush as it whooshes past and hop on the Historic
F-line along Market. Exit at Civic Center for your morning at the
Asian Art Museum, redesigned by internationally
renowned Italian architect Gae Aulenti with three floors of collection
galleries, a gleaming slit glass ceiling through which sunlight pours
and a grand staircase. Spend the morning gazing upon more than 15,000
remarkable objects that span 6,000 years – from jade, stone
and bronze sculptures to paintings and scrolls, furniture, armor
and puppets. When it’s time for lunch, stop for a bite at Café Asia.
The Pan Asian menu boasts bento boxes, rice bowls, hot noodles and
sushi. If the weather’s nice, take a spot in the sun on the
outdoor dining terrace.
Just outside City Hall, take the 49 up Van Ness, and exit at Sutter.
From here, it’s just a few blocks west to Japantown,
the few blocks running between Geary and Bush, Filmore and Laguna.
Nihonmachi, as the locals call Japantown, emerged in the mid-1800’s
with the influx of Japanese immigrants. Now only about 12,000 of
the city’s Japanese Americans live here but many return here
for shopping and social and religious activities.
Japan Center is at the heart of Japantown. The five-acre shopping,
dining and entertainment complex, is where much of the action is
centered and Peace Plaza is the focal point. The Peace Pagoda, 100
feet in five tiers, is at its center; a gift to the community from
the Japanese government. Also in Japan Center are the Ruth Asawa
Fountains, bronze creations surrounded by stone benches. Stop over
at the Ikenobo Ikebana Society for lessons in the Japanese art of
flower arrangements, or just gaze at their artful designs. From clothing
to books, furniture, jewelry, the elegantly inspired stores are filled
with Asian-inspired goods. If all that walking has your feet in need
of some rejuvenation, Kabuki
Springs and Spa will
be happy to oblige. Their traditional Japanese-style communal baths
and shiatsu massage are a local favorite – and well worth
effort to book ahead.
Just outside the mall, at Sutter and Buchannan, is the Japanese
Cultural and Community Center where art exhibitions,
film screenings and discussion groups explore the Japanese American
community. The Soto Zen Mission Sokoji Buddhist Temple at Laguna
and Sutter is one of the five churches in the area where many Japanese
from outlying areas come for services.
When the mood for dinner strikes, sushi, tempura or soba are plentiful.
Whether uniquely upscale or mindfully mid-range, you are likely to
find a selection that fits your liking in the heart of the city’s
Japantown.
Chinatown and Angel Island
Take tea in the hotel before leaving for Pier 39, where you will
catch your boat for Angel
Island, often referred
to as the “Ellis Island of the West.” Your advance planning
was well worth the effort (there is limited ferry service in the
winter), as the Blue and
Gold Fleet ferry
will likely be busy, as it is most days, especially during the summer
months.
Your guided tour of the 740-acre island in the middle of the bay
will include its rich history as a Civil War encampment, a quarantine
station, a POW camp, a missile base and as an Immigration Station.
The island is where 250,000 Chinese immigrants were processed with
an average detention of two weeks -- the longest was 22 months. Families
were isolated, separated and the interrogated and conditions were
harsh. One of the old barracks has been preserved in what was then
called China Cove.
Back on the mainland, exit to your right to the Cable Car turnaround.
Catch a Cable Car to Chinatown, and find some dim sum that
appeals and dig in for lunch. Spend the afternoon wandering the
streets and alleyways along and around
Grant and Stockton, ducking in and out of stores of knick knacks
and knock offs, fine jade and not-so-fine pearls, silk kimonos
and cotton I love San Francisco T-shirts. Humming with street life
morning and night, Chinatown bursts with energy and things to see
and do. Some really recommended:
Be led: The Chinese Culture Center, at the
Holiday Inn, offers historical or culinary guided tours so you can
learn what’s in your dim sum and how much that duck is in the
window.
Get historic: For a look at the most extensive collection of Chinese
American artifacts in America, stop in to the Chinese
Historical Society at 985 Clay.
Go through the gate: The official entrance to Chinatown is at Bush
and Grant, where you will find an elaborately decorated gate, a gift
from Taiwan in 1970.
Be fortunate: Be sure to stop by the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie
Factory on tiny Ross Alley. The century-old factory still makes their
cookies by hand and anyone is welcome to take a look or a taste.
Walk Waverly: This little lane is home Tien Hau Temple and Norras
Temple, the oldest Buddhist Temple in San Francisco.
Say hello to an herbalist: A peek into one of Chinatown’s
real herbal pharmacies will bring you right to the roots of modern
medicine.
Hail Mary: Old St. Mary's Cathedral, was built
by Chinese laborers in 1854 using granite from China; though the
original was destroyed in the 1906 earthquake, the cathedral was
rebuilt.
Once you’ve had your cultural fill, it’s time to choose
one of the many choices for dinner. It’s Chinese tonight. And
if it gets to be dim sum again, so be it!
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